Life in San Jose 10/28/07
Although I am happy to have made it to Coast Rica, living in San Jose feels like another obstacle I must overcome. Days are stressful, usually involving the need to drive across the city for some reason, so there is the challenge of traffic, finding my way, communicating in Spanish and constantly “watching my back.” I tried to go out to dance and listen to music, but “sola” is not so much fun. The Ticos, who are helpful and friendly in a business setting during the day, go out in couples or groups in the evening, don’t speak English and keep to themselves.
Each day I go, for wireless internet, to an American owed place, just down the street from where I am staying, called Casa Roland. It’s owned by a couple of California guys who never grew up. They did concert promotion, some traveling and other dubious activities in the 70’s and landed here in Costa Rica. They’ve got several huge hotels in Costa Rica and Panama, but Casa Roland is unique. It is small and cozy, with ceiling fans and antique furniture right out of a Humphrey Bogart movie and amazing original art work on every square inch of wall. It is the place for the expats from all over Costa Rica to stay when they are flying in and out of the country. ‘I've met all kinds of people and made some good contacts at Casa Roland. There is a special kind of camaraderie between Americans in Costa Rica. It takes an unusual kind of person to leave the States and come down here. That creates a bond.
I have met some very cool people here - all with stories, wild and interesting. There was Anita, who reminds me of Bonnie Raitt. She left home in Texas when she was 15 and at 19 was baby sitting for Willie Nelson’s kids while she dated his 45 year old manager. After that she went south and lived all over Central America, eventually marring a very handsome Tico for 10 years or so until she grew intolerant of the traditional Latin custom of “wife stays home while husband goes out to play.” My friend, Gina, who is my age and from California, married into the Afro-Caribbean culture here when she was 19. She says that in their culture the men go out to the bars without their wives, but the wives go out, too. I like that better.
In this country, romantic relationships come in many forms. American and European men come down here looking for Ticas. It is common to see a young, beautiful Costa Rican woman with a guy old enough to be her grandfather! I spent one fun evening at Casa Roland talking with Pieter, who is from Holland, and his lovely Tica wife, Luz. They are such sweet people. They own a hotel on the Pacific coast. They invited me to come visit and stay for free. Pieter is a kick! He teases all the women, waitresses and me included, and gives his wife the hardest time of all. But she gives it right back to him. She tells me he is too possessive and jealous, but throughout their eight year marriage, he has been very good to her and he really loves her two teenage boys. It is also not unusual to see older and financially well off women with young, handsome men, especially in the Caribbean where there are plenty of willing suitors to provide companionship and other vacation amenities.
Meeting people in this country has been enriching and more than once, a life saving experience. I came down here alone, a stranger. I don’t know what I would have done without David and Lilly. David is my friend who owns the pharmacy. I met him online through a Costa Rica discussion group. As soon as I got here he took me to the bank and helped me open an account - no small task in a country of paperwork and legal regulations. He showed me around, got me acclimated and hooked me up some other good contacts. He and his wife Lilly let me stay in their house (the big empty house I mentioned before) for three weeks. They are a great pair. She is a feisty Puerto Rican lady, raised in Spanish Harlem in New York. Recently, at age 50, after much hard work and serious health problems she got her masters degree in psychology. In New York she worked as a private investigator! David is an American, born and raised in the Bahamas. He is a laid back guy with a heart of gold.
Another American, Jim, took me on a tour of the countryside around San Jose. The rolling hills and coffee plantations are beautiful. We stopped at a quaint little restaurant for a meal.
Every town has a town square with a church and a Saturday market. I especially love going to the market. the fruits and veggies are as fresh and delicious and they are colorful!
Furniture maker creating wicker in the crafts town of Sarchi.
My experience here in San Jose has, on the whole, been a good one, in spite of some adversity. but I never have been a city girl. I am anxious to leave San Jose and go to the playa.
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